Tuesday, November 29, 2011

London in December

Hiya!  (That's a very English phrase - it sounds like "Hi yeah" but just quicker and sometimes with a question mark at the end, not like "hi-YAH" how Mario says it in Nintendo 64 when he dropkicks something.)  Short update:

I have now officially turned in 3 papers for my UCL classes: one about whether or not the British Museum should repatriate items like the Elgin Marbles or the Rosetta Stone to their countries of origin, one on the importance of the trench setting for the play Journey's End, and one on women and goddesses in The Odyssey.  It's still somewhat weird to me that these papers and an exam in May are all that my grades are based on - it's definitely very different from American classes, especially engineering ones.  I've also turned in 5 graduate school applications in the past week, so I've been writing a lot!  I have two more essays due the last day of class, December 16th, but I have two full weeks to get those done so I have a bit of time to relax.

My parents flew over to London for the week of Thanksgiving and I had a wonderful time showing them around town.  We went to see War Horse and Les Miserables (both of which were fabulous), climbed to the top of St. Paul's, and managed to get evacuated from the Tate for a fire alarm.  We had a very unconventional Thanksgiving with a trip to Borough Market in the morning, Mexican food from Lupita for dinner, and a candlelight performance of Mozart's Requiem at St. Martin in the Fields.  Thanksgiving is obviously not celebrated in the UK, but I was surprised how many of my British friends wished me a happy Thanksgiving and how many strangers did as well!  The rugby team even had a potluck Thanksgiving dinner, though they had rugby on tv instead of American football.

I don't think I've written much about the sports teams I'm on, so maybe now is a good time to do that.  Water polo has been going quite well - I've gone to tournaments in Manchester, Birmingham, and just got back from 2 games in Basingstoke this weekend.  I've mostly been playing for a club team, London Polytechnic, with a range of girls from all around London.  I'm actually one of the youngest girls on the team (whereas for rugby and UCL classes I'm definitely on the older side) and a lot of the players are out of university and working, so it's been nice to get to know some people outside of UCL.  Rugby has been incredibly fun as well, though I still don't really know what I'm doing!  The girls rugby team at UCL is huge (you play 15 people at a time, normally have 22 come to games, and we have 57 on the team) but very welcoming and friendly.  I thought that having played water polo for 10 years I'd be fully prepared for the agression and physical contact required by rugby, but when we literally started wrestling during the first practice I realized I was in for a surprise.  I've played in a few games so far and generally end up limping around for some reason or other for a few days after the game.  Between rugby and water polo, I've racked up a pretty impressive collection of bruises and scratches as well!

Only two more weeks of first term to go - I can't believe how fast the time has been flying by.  London is beautifully decorated for Christmas but I'm excited to be heading home for a bit to enjoy some of my favorite American things!  Until next time.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Essays from the summer

I apologize for not posting in a while - the pace of things here has picked up quite a bit!  I am hard at work on my first UCL essay right now, for my Ancient World in London Collections class (I'm writing about whether or not the British Museum should return artifacts like the Elgin Marbles or the Rosetta Stone to their countries of origin), so in the spirit of that I've decided to post two of my papers from over the summer.  The first is from my Multicultural London Literature course and is focused on the novel "Small Island" and the experience of London immigrants, while the second is a close reading of one passage in "Much Ado About Nothing" ('close reading' is a very popular theme in UK courses, it seems).  If anyone was wondering what I'm actually doing school-wise over here in London, here's some of it!  (And if no one was wondering, I promise to post soon with pictures and escapades).

ESSAY: The Migrant Experience: Drawing from Historical and Fictional Accounts


“The feeling I had to know that I’m going to touch the soil of the mother country, that was the feeling I had.  How I can describe?  It’s just a wonderful feeling.  You know how it is when a child, you hear about the mother country, and you know you’re going to touch the soil of the mother country, you know what feeling is that?  And I can’t describe it.  That’s why I compose the song.  Imagine how I felt.  Here’s where I want to be, London.”  (Lord Kitchener, quoted in Phillips Windrush, 64).

From the first few notes of Lord Kitchener’s calypso song “London is the Place for Me,” the optimism and hope of the Caribbean migrants arriving on the SS Empire Windrush is immediately evident.  Composed before Lord Kitchener had even glimpsed the United Kingdom, the song refers to the “lovely city” where Kitchener can “feel like a millionaire” and live a “magnificent” life.   These ideas of England and especially London as the apex of the British Empire, a place where opportunity was everywhere and dreams could be easily achieved, were characteristic of most (if not all) migrants arriving on British soil.   The feelings that typified these Caribbean migrants are present not just in personal statements by Lord Kitchener and other passengers aboard the Windrush and later ships, but also in the artistic creations, from Kitchener’s popular calypso lyrics to later literature and poetic works, of the 1950s and beyond. 
Andrea Levy’s 2004 novel Small Island describes the experiences of four characters, two English and two Jamaican, who find their lives inextricably bound together in the aftermath of the Second World War.  Though telling a fictional story, Levy describes many aspects of actual Caribbean migrants’ experiences and captures the essence of how many immigrants felt.  In Small Island, Gilbert, a young Jamaican man who volunteers to join the RAF to fight for his mother country, returns to his home island after the war and finds himself longing to return to England: “If you would listen then we would talk – widen your eyes with stories of war and the Mother Country… Come, ask a question you have always wanted to know.  The King – oh, a fine man, and Shakespeare too.  Paved with gold, no – but yes, diamonds appear on the ground in the rain” (Levy 172).  Gilbert so strongly believes in his mother country that he essentially sells himself, promising to marry a woman he does not love and who doesn’t give any indication of loving him, for the price of a passage to England.  Like her new husband, Gilbert’s wife Hortense idealizes the land of England and initially idolizes its inhabitants.  Hortense repeats several times that England is her “destiny,” a choice of words that alludes to all the hopes and sureties that Hortense associates with the country.  Like Lord Kitchener, long before she reaches the shores of England Hortense is sure that she knows what her life will be like there: “I [will] walk to the shop where I am greeted with manners… politeness… and refinement.  A red bus, a cold morning, and daffodils blooming with all the colours of the rainbow” (Levy 82-83).  Hortense is sure of what England and English people will be like, and she holds the cultivated and civilized inhabitants of her future home in high esteem.  While training to be a teacher in Jamaica, Hortense aspires to be like the white tutors at her college, the “white women whose superiority encircled them like an aureole… [whose] formal elocution, eminent intelligence, and imperial demeanour demanded and received obedience from all who beheld them” (Levy 57).  The words Levy uses to describe Hortense’s attitude towards these white women (especially “superiority” and “imperial”) imply reference to both the historical fact of British preponderance (superiority of British armed forces allowing creation of Empire) and the more complicated idea of ‘colonisation of the mind’ (in which the imperial administration established the English at the top of a hierarchy of civilization, with colonists necessarily filling in the lower rungs of the cultural ladder).   
While Small Island is a fictional account of Caribbean migrants in the post-war years, these characters’ feelings arise from historical reality, not only from members of the Windrush generation but from even earlier historical accounts as well.  Olaudah Equiano, a freed slave who rose to prominence in the Abolitionist movement and published an account of his life as a slave in 1789, wrote over 150 years prior to the arrival of the Windrush:
“I now not only felt myself quite easy with these new countrymen, but relished their society and manners.  I no longer looked upon them as spirits, but as men superior to us; and therefore I had the stronger desire to resemble them; to imbibe their sprit, and imitate their manners; I therefore embraced every occasion of improvement; and every new thing that I observed I treasured up in my memory” (Equiano). 

The language in this passage is overwhelmingly positive, giving quite a clear picture of how much Equiano reveres the white Englishmen[1].  In the 18th century, the slave trade was very much in practice and the attitude of white superiority would have been beaten (figuratively and quite possibly literally) into enslaved African and Caribbean peoples.  Describing his initial reaction to the appearance of white Englishmen in his native land, Equiano writes early in his Interesting Narrative that “the white people looked and acted… in so savage a manner.”  As his account progresses, however, and Equiano describes his increased maturity and education, he proclaims that despite the things he finds curious about the English (including their “eating with unwashed hands”), he was  “astonished at the wisdom of the white people in all things.”  Hundreds of years later, Levy borrows much of the sentiment and even the wording from Equiano’s account in her fictional portrayal of Hortense and Gilbert’s arrival in England; words like “superior” and  “imitate” appear again and again in Levy’s novel, along with many other expressions of the Jamaican’s attempts to resemble the British, from Hortense’s baking fairy cakes to Gilbert’s desire to get a degree at an English university.  Hortense’s description of the English women “whose superiority encircled them like an aureole” is strikingly similar to Equiano’s initial description of the English people as “like spirits” – both phrases implying a spiritual or divine aspect to the British as seen by African or Caribbean people. 
Levy’s novel describes the experiences of a few characters who were just part of a much larger social context.  Following in the footsteps of the initial passengers of the SS Empire Windrush, people from the Caribbean flocked to England in great numbers after the end of World War II.  More Caribbean migrants arrived in the UK during the 1950s than people from African, India or Pakistan.  Approximately 500-700 Caribbean immigrants came to the UK in 1948 – less than 10 years later, by 1956, over 40,000 Caribbean people had settled in Britain (Moving Here).  Most were hopeful and expectant that their move to this fabled mother country would bring about positive changes in their lives and afford them opportunities they could not have had in their native countries.  MovingHere.org, a website sponsored by the National Archive, chronicles the experiences of many migrant populations through original documents as well as transcripts and recordings of personal accounts.  Through interviews with immigrants of the Windrush generation and afterwards, the site provides a picture of the actual migration experiences for hundreds of people moving to the UK.  “We were the envy of our friends back home,” reads the account of Trinidadian Esther Jones, “we were bound for the land of freedom and opportunity… [I had] a sense of awe at the history of my motherland” (Moving Here).  Another immigrant arriving on the SS Auriga, which sailed from Kingston to the UK in 1955 carrying 1100 passengers, is quoted as saying, “emigration was at the time a life belt thrown out to a drowning generation” (Moving Here).  Benjamin Zephaniah, a black British poet of Barbadian and Jamaican descent, wrote a poem describing the experiences of those in the Windrush generation that borrows its title from the headline of Peter Fryer’s newspaper article “The men from Jamaica are settling down” (Moving Here)[2].  Zephaniah writes about immigrants arriving with “shiploads of hope” about their futures in “de land of de hope and de glory… de land of pleasant pastures green.”  From these personal reports and many others, along with literary depictions like Zephaniah’s poem and Levy’s novel, it is evident that there existed a commonality of experience shared not just by Jamaican migrants aboard the SS Empire Windrush but by immigrants from all around the Caribbean during this generation and afterwards.   
Contrary to the high hopes of the migrant population, however, the English reception of and response to these Caribbean transplants was strikingly mixed.  Initially, the British government encouraged the arrival of Caribbean immigrants as a labour force to fill the shortage of workers in various British industries.  The Nationality Act (1948) ensured that Commonwealth citizens were also recognized as British subjects, a stipulation that ensured Caribbean migrants could live and work in the UK without being subject to immigration control.  The Commonwealth Immigrants Bill passed in 1962, however, imposed strict regulations on immigrants from the colonies settling in the UK and caused an immediate decrease in the number of Caribbean migrants arriving in England.  The popular reaction to these new arrivals was similarly ambivalent, a lingering effect from the various responses during the Second World War to Caribbean servicemen and other volunteers from the colonies which Levy portrays through Gilbert’s fictional experience.  Arriving in Yorkshire for RAF training and visiting an English countryside village for the first time, Gilbert and his fellow West Indian servicemen are greeted with quite the range of reactions. “‘We’re all in this together, lad,’” one elderly villager tells Gilbert, “‘We’re glad to have you here’” (Levy 114) while another man, who refuses to look Gilbert in the eye, responds to Gilbert’s assertion that he has joined the RAF to fight for his country with a “‘Humph. Your country?’” (Levy 115).  Back in Jamaica, Hortense’s Welsh principal declares to her that “many people, of whom I am one, believe that no matter what their colour, no matter what their creed, men who are fighting to protect the people of Great Britain from the threat of invasion by Germans are gallant heroes” (Levy 66).  Just a few years later in England, Queenie deals with extreme prejudice and judgement from her neighbours and her own husband for allowing black boarders in her home after the war.  Her husband Bernard declares,
“The war was fought so people might live amongst their own kind.  Quite simple.  Everyone had a place.  England for the English and the West Indies for these coloured people… Everyone was trying to get home after the war to be with kith and kin.  Except these blasted coloured colonial.  I’ve nothing against them in their place.  But their place isn’t here.” (Levy 388)

Clearly, British reactions to the arrival of Caribbean immigrants were quite varied.  Migrants also found that their expectations of England and its inhabitants were often proved shockingly incorrect.  A Jamaican immigrant named Owen, sharing his story on MovingHere.org, writes that initially he was so excited to be in England that he didn’t even feel the cold of the English winter but describes his later shock at how difficult it was for Caribbean migrants to find accommodation, as most English landlords would prohibit blacks and Irish from letting a room.  Another immigrant, James Alcide, describes telling his wife about signs that said “No Blacks, No Dogs Allowed” and not being able to convince her that these signs actually existed.  Echoing these actual accounts of immigrants’ surprise and shock at reality of England, Levy describes Hortense’s amazement at the coarseness of the English people she meets (and her utter surprise when they cannot understand her carefully pronounced speech) and the West Indian airmen’s astonishment at finding a white man sweeping the street in England.  In one short sentence, Gilbert illustrates the disappointment and disillusionment of the common immigrant experience by describing how England “deceives” her Caribbean immigrants, betraying “all us pitiful West Indian dreamers who sailed with heads bursting with foolishness” (Levy 269).  In a long passage of Small Island, Gilbert personifies England as a literal Mother, “beautiful… refined, mannerly and cultured,” who calls for help from the best men of her colonies but greets them upon their arrival as a “ragged, old and dusty… stinking cantankerous hag” (Levy 116) who doesn’t embrace her colonial children or even recognize them.  Though this passage is told in much more colourful and descriptive language than most of the historical accounts gathered from Caribbean migrants at this time, Gilbert’s feelings of disappointment and disenchantment are typical of many descriptions of immigrants’ arrivals in England. 
Not all was tragic, however, as the lively melody and huge popularity of Lord Kitchener’s song attests.  Small Island ends on a somewhat hopeful note, with Gilbert and Hortense finally starting to love one another and adopting Queenie’s half-black child in an attempt to provide the baby a better future.  Zephaniah’s poem recognizes the struggles of Caribbean migrants but speaks of a new generation (of which Zephaniah himself was a part) and new era of radicalism, black writers, and cultural celebrations like blues music and carnival.  Like the optimistic lyrics of “London is the Place for Me”, Zephaniah’s poetry proclaims his hope for his people and his future, proclaiming “De future is made up of what we can do,” and his feelings toward his home country are reinforced by another of Zephaniah’s poems “The London Breed.”  Despite the past legacies of British imperialism and rampant racism, Zephaniah – like Lord Kitchener and a host of other Caribbean and colonial transplants before him – sees London as his city and has high hopes for what the future in England holds. 

References

Equiano, Olaudah.  The Interesting Narrative of the Life of Olaudah Equiano, or Gustavus Vassa, the African.  London: Union Street, Marylebone, 1789.

Levy, Andrea.  Small Island.  New York: Picador, 2004. 

Moving Here: Migration Histories – Caribbean and Moving Here: Stories.  Web. 
< http://www.movinghere.org.uk/galleries/histories/caribbean/caribbean.htm> Accessed 14 July 2011.


[1] However, it is quite possible that Equiano praised the English to such a great extent in his book as a method of increasing its popularity and thus more widely spreading his Abolitionist message.
[2] See full text of poem in this document included after “References” section




ESSAY: Much Ado About Nothing Close Reading Assignment: Act II, Scene I, lines 151-172

In the first scene of Act II of Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing, Don John approaches a masked Claudio and, pretending to believe he is speaking to Benedick, tells Claudio that Don Pedro is not in fact wooing Hero for Claudio’s sake but intends to marry Hero himself.  In earlier sections of this scene (specifically Don Pedro’s wooing of Hero, Ursula’s conversation with Antonio, and Beatrice’s witty words with a masked Benedick), action has occurred with many characters on stage, including three stage directions of characters stepping aside so that a new conversation can draw the audience’s attention.  Just prior to this extract, all the characters but Don John, Borachio and Claudio exit the stage, leaving the three men alone to heighten the drama of these lines.  The audience is clearly told that the masked man on stage is Claudio, yet he answers to the name of Benedick and is unrecognizable enough that he fully believes he could be mistaken for his friend; no matter how this scene is staged, we know Claudio must be wearing a mask when Don John and Borachio approach him to maintain the idea that they could mistake him for Benedick.  Though a reading solely of the lines of this extract would suggest the possibility that Don John may actually believe he is speaking to Benedick, the lines immediately preceding this section make it clear that Don John and Borachio are unquestionably trying to trick Claudio (Borachio tells Don John: “that is Claudio. I know him by his bearing.”)  Borachio and Don John’s description of the (false) situation with Don Pedro and Hero is meant to throw Claudio into a sense of jealousy and betrayal; the villains twice use the word “swear” to underscore the truth of their story.   They further emphasize that Don Pedro plans to marry Hero “tonight” to thrust Claudio into a state of despair; as Humphreys describes in the footnotes of the Arden edition, this is meant “to precipitate Claudio into a sense of hopeless crisis” (118).  As in other sections of the play, Don John cloaks his ill intent under the guise of caring for other characters, telling Claudio he should help Don Pedro by preventing the marriage as Hero’s social status is not high enough for the prince (later he tells Claudio of Hero’s disloyalty as if despite their differences he is just looking out for a good friend of his brother).  Don John’s deceit, hiding his tricks under a pretext of concern, is highlighted by his urging Claudio to have “the part of an honest man” when the audience, if not Claudio, is fully aware of Don John’s dishonesty.  The themes of deception and duplicity, present throughout Much Ado About Nothing, are underscored in this scene by the disguises the characters are wearing in the form of costumes and masks for Leonato’s party.  The masks serve as a physical symbol of the misapprehension that occurs throughout the play. 
            After Don John and Borachio exit, Claudio speaks an 11-line soliloquy about this supposed betrayal.  He remarks on how people betray their friends for love and counsels that anyone in love should act on it himself, not depending on help from his friends.  He calls beauty a “witch” under whose “charms” loyalty and integrity disintegrate into desire and lust, remarking on how often this occurs with men in love but his lack of suspicion that it would happen to him.  Claudio switches into verse for much of his soliloquy, a stylistic choice on Shakespeare’s part that amplifies the drama and tragedy of his words (especially in contrast to the comic prose sections, particularly the conversation between Benedick and Beatrice, that directly precede this extract).  While the switch from prose to verse heightens Claudio’s speech, the way Claudio brings in language of the body (“all hearts,” “own tongues,” “every eye”) serves to make his soliloquy more intimate and creates a stronger connection with the audience.  Much of the language and imagery of this passage speaks to the context of early modern culture in which this play would have been first performed.  For example, Claudio uses language of business in describing love, illustrating the early modern idea of marriage as a contract.  He wishes he had “negotiated” for himself, instead of letting Don Pedro act as his “agent” – these are not words we would typically associate with romance and marriage today, but in early modern society marriage was as much an economic decision as it was an emotional one (despite his many professions of love for Hero, Claudio is sure to ask right away if Hero is Leonato’s only heir).  In another example, the idea of beauty as a witch speaks to the idea at this time of female sexuality as a dangerous and treacherous thing; Claudio claims that “beauty is a witch against whose charms faith melteth into blood”.  Carol Cook, in her article on gender difference in Much Ado, points out that Claudio’s language removes blame from the male figure (Don Pedro) that Claudio believes has betrayed him and instead holds the “witch” of Hero’s beauty responsible.  Cook further describes how “Hero is subsumed into an archetype of destructive female power – of the sorceress who deprives men of their wills and dissolves the solidarity of masculine bonds into the ‘blood’ of passion and violence” (193).  Female sexuality was seen as a threat to the family unit (as men were ever fearful of being cuckolded) and thus a threat to society as a whole, as the family was the cornerstone of early modern society and represented a ‘little Commonwealth’.  As Barbara Everett describes, women (specifically in terms of their sexuality) could be seen as a “hypnotic and possibly devilish enemy” (102) to society if they were not chaste, silent, and obedient.  The idea of female beauty as a witch that could undo the bonds of loyalty among men is a telling illustration of this fear of women and female sexuality in early modern society. 
What occurs in the few lines of this extract presages many of the actions that occur later in the play, especially Don John’s villainy in tricking Claudio to ruin his impending marriage to Hero, and Claudio’s quickness to believe he is the victim of a betrayal. As Cook highlights, Claudio’s soliloquy reveals that “Claudio’s distrust of the witchlike powers of female beauty is close to the surface and easily triggered” (193), which proves integral to the plot when Don John later suggests to Claudio that Hero has been unfaithful.  Having seen Claudio’s quickness to believe the worst of his friend, the audience is not surprised when Claudio immediately believes the worst of his bride.  Unlike later scenes however, Claudio wholeheartedly believes he is betrayed based on nothing other than the word of a man with “a very melancholy disposition” (later in the play it is implied the Claudio actually observes the misleading interaction between Margaret and Borachio) and no other characters are deceived along with Claudio.  The footnotes of the Arden edition of Much Ado suggest that “Shakespeare somewhat exonerates him [Claudio] by showing others no less deceived” (Humphreys 118) later in the play when Don Pedro fully believes Hero’s infidelity as well.  Humphreys suggests that Claudio is exonerated in this scene as well, citing Benedick as another deceived character according to the line “You must wear it one way, for the Prince hath got your Hero.”  This is not compelling evidence, however, of Benedick sharing in Claudio’s belief in betrayal; perhaps Shakespeare leaves Claudio to be deceived alone in this scene to prepare the audience for his future acceptance of Hero’s betrayal, and later gives him ‘exoneration’ in the form of Don Pedro’s complicity so as to temper the feeling of Claudio as a fickle and changeable man. Even the language of this extract is echoed in later parts of the play; during the (first) wedding scene, Claudio again bids farewell to Hero and bemoans love:
“But fare thee well, most foul, most fair!  Farewell…
For thee I’ll lock up all the gates of love,
And on my eyelids shall conjecture hang,
To turn all beauty into thoughts of harm,
And never shall it more be gracious.” (Act IV, Scene I)

The echoing of words (“farewell”, “beauty”) and ideas (beauty as something that could be harmful, Claudio’s language of body parts) reminds the audience of Claudio’s earlier capriciousness and perhaps serves to reassure us that things may not all turn tragic; since we have already seen one scene in which Claudio is reconciled with his supposed betrayer, we expect that another resolution may lie in the future. 
            Though these few lines are but a small part of Much Ado About Nothing, the language, themes, and imagery can serve to enhance a reader’s insight into the play as a whole.  Actions in this extract foretell some of the upcoming plot and language from this scene appears again at later points in the play.  The audience gains a clear perception of Don John’s perfidy and Claudio’s capriciousness.  Moreover, especially important for modern audiences, this extract showcases the play’s context and highlights some early modern ideas, specifically regarding marriage as a contract and the danger of female sexuality.   

References

Cook, Carol.  “The Sign and Semblance of Her Honor: Reading Gender Difference in Much Ado About Nothing.  PMLA. Vol 10, No. 2 (March 1986), 186-202.  <http://www.jstor.org/stable/462403>  Accessed 4 August 2011. 

Everett, Barbara.  “Much Ado About Nothing.”  Shakespeare: Much Ado About Nothing and As You Like It – A Casebook.  Ed John Russell Brown.  London: Macmillan, 1979.  100 – 109. 

Humphreys, A. R., ed.  The Arden Edition of the Words of William Shakespeare: Much Ado About Nothing.  London: Methuen, 2009. 

Mares, F. H., ed.  The New Cambridge Shakespeare: Much Ado About Nothing.  Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003.  


Friday, October 21, 2011

Update on Classes

I've finished up with my third week of classes at UCL.  As each term has only 10 weeks, I'm actually done with a somewhat significant portion of the term!  I switched one of my courses (the Science Communication course) for a new history class called "Ancient World in London Collections," which meets most weeks in the British Museum and involves exploring the museum with our tutor and learning about what the various artifacts can tell us about ancient history (so cool!).  I've been keeping myself very busy with water polo (I'm currently on three teams: the UCL mixed first team, the UCL girls team, and a club girls team called Poly) and rugby (I've been going to some of the girls team's practices - very fun but very very agressive!) and lots of other events.  By the end of October I'll have been to a show or concert every week - I saw The Lion King with a bunch of other UCL students earlier this month, went to a Joshua Radin concert with friends last week, saw Jamie Cullum last Tuesday in Kentish Town (wonderful concert - got some great videos!) and have tickets to see Laura Marling (a British musician I absolutely love) next week.  I've been showing my friends many of the places that I visited a lot over the summer (like Borough Market) but am still exploring and finding new places as well - recent favorites include Regent's Park and Gordon Square.  I've been spending a good amount of time on schoolwork (with only 8 hours of actual class time a week, they expect you to do much more independent work) and just over a week ago I took the GRE, so now I embark on the next big part of applying to graduate schools: the applications themselves.  Luckily my 4-day weekends give me some extra time to spend on grad school applications, though between water polo tournaments and traveling I'll be gone a lot.  If I'm lucky enough to get any interviews, I hope to take Reading Week of next semester to come back to the US and visit schools.

I have been having a bit of trouble with my current roommate (she doesn't know the meaning of the word "compromise" and I mean that literally), but I found out today that I'll be able to switch into a single at the term change in January!  Not yet sure where I'll be living, but I hope to stay in my current dorm as the location is so great.  And this experience is definitely providing some amusing stories, at least.

Off to dinner now with a few friends - dim sum and then visiting the Tate.  There's an Gerhard Richter exhibit there I'm very excited to see.  Cheers!


P.S.  I went to Copenhagen a few weekends ago and had a fabulous time!  It was much colder than London but absolutely beautiful - I especially loved eating at the cute little restaurants on Nyhavn (right on the canal) and venturing out into the Danish countryside and seeing Fredriksborgslot, the beautiful castle in the picture below, as seen from the many-leveled garden across the lake.  (Mange tak to Brett and Karen!)

Thursday, October 6, 2011

First Week of Class!

After returning to London on 15 September, I have finally begun classes at UCL!  I'm still only partially registered for classes (their online registration system here is not the most efficient or intuitive) but I went to all the classes I requested this week and I expect everything to be figured out by Friday.  Before I write anything about my classes, I have to explain a little about the UK educational system, because it is strikingly different from the American system.  In general, British students must choose far earlier than American students what they want to study at university (which they usually call "uni" and which is different from "college" or "school").  At age 14, they choose 10 subjects to study.  At age 16, they choose just 3 of those subjects to study exclusively for the next 2 years.  At 18, when they go to uni, they choose 1 of those 3 subjects and that's their department.  While in the US we normally don't have to choose our majors until the 2nd year of college, British students must choose their general area by age 16 and decide before applying to university exactly what they want to study.  This also means that introductory British university classes are usually much more advanced than American introductory courses, as the tutors (their word for professors) expect you to have already studied the subject area for 2 years.  Students also don't often take classes outside their departments, except for in very special cases, which makes being an Affiliate student taking classes in several departments quite difficult!  I think I have it mostly worked out, however, and if I get approved for everything online my courses will be:

Term 1:
Introduction to Greek Literature
Greek Authors: Homer
Literary Responses to the First World War
Science, Communication and the Global Community  ---> now taking "Ancient World in London Collections" instead

Term 2:
Greek Myth: Its Use and Meaning
Greek Comedy
London before the Great Fire
Literature and Memory in a Globalised Society

Another big difference from the American college experience is the amount of time you spend in class - taking 4 classes each term, I only have 8 hours of class a week!  This first term I only have classes Monday through Wednesday (4 day weekends!) and next term I have two hours of class a day, Monday through Thursday.  Compared to my 4 years at UM, I'll have so much free time.

It's been a very busy week with starting classes on Monday, but today I'm off to Copenhagen!  When I come back, I'll write more about my classes and how they are going, plus the other things I've been doing while in London (like going to see the Lion King, joining the water polo team, and trying out rugby!).

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Back from Morocco

Sorry, I've gotten a little behind on my blog posting! Turns out there are not very many places in Morocco where you can get wifi (contrary to what most hotel and hostel websites claim), and since I returned to the UK it's been incredibly busy. So, for a quick catch up:

One more photo of Chefchaouen:

From Chefchaouen I hopped on a bus to Fez, one of the four Imperial Cities of Morocco. The Fez medina is absolutely crazy, except for on Fridays (the day I arrived, of course) when everyone is at the mosque and then goes home to make couscous with their families. At full pace, the medina is overwhelming, with shops and stalls lining the tiny streets selling everything from traditional Moroccan slippers emblazoned with the LV logo, skinned animal heads, black olive soap, leather poufs, nougat candies, etc... Everywhere you walk little boys shout at you that whichever way you're walking is "closed" and that instead you should follow them to the tanneries. There are hundreds of little twisting and turning streets that lead off to dead end alleyways or bustling squares, so even with a map it can be quite difficult to find your way around. It's definitely an experience, and quite different from any place I've been before!

One of the gates to enter the medina of Fez:
 Dates for sale:

The most common mode of transport in the Fez medina:



The Fez tanneries:

Lamps for sale in Metalworkers' Square:
From Fez I took a train to Meknes, another one of the Imperial Cities, and caught a taxi (this time wise enough to buy myself 2 places) to the little town of Moulay Idriss. Moulay Idriss is not a tourist destination - I think the reason most people go there is because it's so close to the Roman ruins at Volubilis - but this quiet little town turned out to be one of my favorite places in Morocco. There's not too much going on, but after the energy and business of Fez, a more peaceful and less touristy few days were just what I needed. One of my favorite experiences of the entire trip was going to the local hammam (public bath) in Moulay Idriss, where I was scrubbed down very vigorously by the bath attendant and tried to chat with the local women using sign language. I also loved going to the ruins at Volubilis. I adore ruins in general, and I ended up visiting these ones twice, on the afternoon I arrived and then again the next morning! It was relatively uncrowded, especially when I went in the late afternoon, with a few tour groups that went through very rapidly and then pretty much no one else besides the local cowherd, grazing the cows among the less excavated parts of the ruins.

The town of Moulay Idriss:




Volubilis:










One of the ancient floor mosaics:




View from the ruins:




Another ancient mosaic:









Sunset at Volubilis:




After a lovely two days in Moulay Idriss, I took a taxi back to Meknes where I caught the Marrakech Express, which isn't actually named the "Marrakech Express" and which definitely isn't very express. Marrakech is an extremely vibrant city, especially around the Place D'Jemaa El-Fna. The square is full of women offering henna, snake charmers, storytellers, men with monkeys on leashes, dancers, rows of giant carts selling fresh squeezed orange juice or dates, and stalls selling couscous or fried fish or giant pots of snails. Especially at night, this is the place to be in Marrakech. I took a few photos, but nothing can really convey the experience.




I found this video which gives a little bit of an idea what it's like there. The only thing I didn't see that's in the video is the human pyramid type thing, but I did see this instead:




Doesn't look too exciting, but those things on the left side of the table are dentures and that large pile of small white things is human teeth!

While in Marrakech I also visited the Bahia Palace, which looks strikingly similar to the Alhambra in Granada (just smaller and without so many reflecting pools and gardens) and another Alhambra-lookalike, the Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, a Quranic school founded in the 14th century.












Finally, over a month after I left London, I hopped on an easyjet flight from Marrakech back to the UK. Since I got back to London, I've gone through Orientation with API, International Student Orientation at UCL, and New Student Orientation through my department. I'm all moved in, finally (long story!), and working on getting myself registered for the classes I want to take. Classes start next week and I'm really looking forward to getting settled in to a routine! More to come soon about UCL and life as a real London student.

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Thursday, September 8, 2011

Photos

I'm putting up more photos from my travels on picasa (I created a new album separate from the picasa album I have for London):

https://picasaweb.google.com/106757080141228507860/RogerMJonesTraveling

(London and blog photos are still at: https://picasaweb.google.com/106757080141228507860/RogerMJonesJournal?authkey=Gv1sRgCOTjjfvTuLTNXw)

Enjoy!

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Spain and Morocco

Hello from Morocco! Monday night I arrived in Chefchaouen from Granada, via bus, bus, ferry, bus, bus, bus, grand taxi (aka a normal sized American taxi that in Morocco carries 7 people), petit taxi (aka a slightly larger than SmartCar-sized vehicle that drives around town for 15 dirhams, or about $2) and another petit taxi. It was a pretty awful day of travel but now I am in Morocco and I've loved it here in Chefchaouen (also called just Chaouen) so far.

To go back in time a little bit: Madrid was nice, especially the parks, plazas, and the cheap tapas places. I did a bike tour (which is a really fantastic way to see a city - wish I'd done one in Amsterdam as well!), visited the Palacio Real, wandered around the Plaza Mayor and the Puerto del Sol, and visited the Reina Sofia museum (free for students) where there was, among many other things, art by Picasso and a really interesting exhibit by a Japanese artist who's now living voluntarily in a mental hospital. I had a great time seeing two friends from UM and exploring the city with them.












From Madrid I flew (cheaper than the train!) to Barcelona. I did another bike tour and met some really interesting people (including a neuroscientist from Germany and a Danish photography student) and saw some of the wild buildings designed by Gaudi. I spent a lot of time at the beach and the parks (one of which has an amazing fountain designed for a World Expo in the early 1900s) as it was so so hot, especially on my second day! I had lunch one day at the food market (just off Las Ramblas) which was incredibly fun to walk around, full of stalls selling seafood and candy and animal heads and pretty much everything you could possibly want (or not want) to eat. Barcelona had especially good anchovies - available at almost any restaurant or sold a la carte in seafood places, and very tasty!

Fountain in the park in Barcelona:





The Sagrada Familia church, designed by Gaudi (construction started in 1883 and is ongoing today, with plans to finish by 2026):





Meat for sale at La Boqueria food market:






After 2 days in Barcelona I flew to Granada, which I absolutely loved! The hostel I stayed at (Oasis) was fantastic. Besides nice rooms and low rates, they offered several walking tours, a paella night, cheap drinks and a wonderful roof terrace. And the city of Granada was great! It was pretty laid back, easy to walk around and set against the beautiful backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Alhambra. I only stayed 3 days and definitely wish I'd stayed longer. One of the walking tours went through the Albayzin, or the old Moorish Quarter, which is made up of tiny little white alleys (there are only three roads in this part of the city that allow cars) up quite a steep hill. We also got to go inside one of the cave houses that are popular in the city. One night we went to a flamenco show in a tiny little cave room, and every night we enjoyed copious amounts of tapas (which come free with very drink). By the time I got to Granada I had definitely adjusted to "Spanish time", eating dinner at 10 or 11 and popping around to tons of tapas bars, though I never made it to one of the clubs that only open at 3am. I met tons of new friends, and of my 6-person dorm, 4 of us (me, 2 Kiwi guys and a guy from the UK) turned out to be engineers living in London! Small world.

The Albayzin:





Some street art from the walking tour (it's a staircase):





The tiny streets of the Albayzin:






The Alhambra was definitely one of the highlights of my time in Granada. I did both the day tour (you buy a ticket for a 6-hour slot either in the morning or afternoon) and went back at 10:30pm to see the Nasrid Palaces lit up at night. It's truly an amazing place - it looks like a large fortress from the outside, but the interior is intricately and beautifully decorated with tiles and carvings and the complex is full of pools and arched gates. There are two sets of gardens inside as well, and both are spectacular. I'd love to post about 200 photos from the few hours I spent there (it was that amazing!) but I'll keep it to just a few.
















































And now I'm in Morocco! The day of travel to get here was really tough but the old medina of Chefchaouen is just unreal; so beautiful and completely foreign. It's almost entirely whitewashed with highlights of blue - some of the alleys are blinding when you walk down them in the sunlight. The main plaza is leafy (very welcome in the hot, sunny afternoons) and has great views of the old Kasbah. The streets of the medina vary from deserted to packed with little shops, selling food or dyes or pottery, with tons of little shops filled with earthenware tangines and leather poufs and metal lanterns.
























The place I'm staying at, about 15 minutes walk from the medina, has a lovely roof terrace where I'm sitting right now, listening to roosters and goats and watching the sun set behind the hills. I just got back from an incredible hike to "God's Bridge", a naturally formed bridge/gorge about 45 minutes outside Chaouen. Went swimming in the gorge at the end and managed not to get my camera too wet during the hike!

God's Bridge in Akchour:





On the rocks underneath the natural bridge:





View at dusk from the rooftop terrace of the B&B:






Well, that was quite the blog post - 4 cities in 12 days and so much to say! Sorry for the tons of photos - it's so hard to choose. I'm finishing up my Moroccan mint tea and am about to head off to dinner in the medina (I'm quite hungry for couscous after the hike!) so au revoir for now. I'll try to get in a few more posts before I head back to London on the 15th. Only 1 more week of traveling!

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Location:R412,Chefchaouen,Morocco

Monday, August 29, 2011

The Netherlands

A week ago today I wrote my last post in the airport. It feels like so much longer than one week! I arrived in Amsterdam bright and early (6:30am) on Tuesday morning. The city was incredibly quiet and peaceful (it was very early in the morning!) and the exit I took out of the train station led me to a beautiful, serene canal instead of the more touristy Damrak street. It was a lot busier at other times during the few days I was there, especially on the more touristy streets and in the Red Light district, but a lot of the streets maintained that quiet and pleasant feeling (especially smaller canal streets like "de negen straatjes", or "the nine little streets"). While in Amsterdam, I visited the Rijksmuseum (a museum with a variety of Dutch items, from Rembrants and Vermeers to Delft tulip vases and beautiful old dollhouses), FOAM (a photography museum), and Rembrandt's House. I spent a lot of time just walking along the canals - the architecture of the houses is so pretty and the canals are just beautiful.





I had great food while in the Netherlands, apparently the Dutch take their sandwiches very seriously and even at small little cafes I found delicious things to eat (like goat cheese and sautéd bell peppers on farmers's bread with mango chutney, rocket and almond slivers). Restaurant de Belhamel (which Anne told me means "Rascals" in Dutch) was my favorite, with this lovely view:


I had a great time staying with my friend Anne and her fiancé. I've only known Anne since the beginning of July and we were only in London together for 3 weeks, but we (along with Betty, a girl from Austria) had a great time exploring London, trying out new restaurants together, and planning Anne's proposal, which she did on the London Eye the weekend after our class ended. So we became much closer than most people after only three weeks! Their house was wonderful and only a 2 minute walk from the Amsterdam Muiderpoort train station, from which it is only a 5-minute ride to Amsterdam Centraal. I took the train a lot while staying with them and was very proud when I figured out the Dutch words for express vs local trains - "Sprinter" trains are of course the fastest while "Sneltrein" means it goes more slowly (like a snail? Dutch is full of English cognates) - only to find out from Anne that it's the exact opposite! Anne was also extremely helpful in correcting my atrocious pronunciation of Dutch (the only phrase I really got down was "dank je vel", or "thank you very much") but everyone in the Netherlands spoke almost perfect English, so except for picking the slower trains, everything went very well. Except the one time I tried to buy wet wipes (always very useful for traveling) and found out from Anne that I had purchased "wet toilet paper" - who knew such a thing existed?

On Thursday I took the train out to Delft and then Leiden. Delft (where the blue/white pottery originally came from) is a picturesque old town with 2 large churches, the Old Church and the New Church ("new" being a relative term, as the church was built between 1396 - 1496). You can climb the 365 steps up an extremely small spiral staircase in the tower of the New Church (which I did) and walk around the top of the tower 109 meters above the main square (which I did not do).


Luckily there were a few levels before the very top, so I got to enjoy some spectacular views of Delft and the surrounding areas.





I also visited the Old Church, which was lovely inside, but didn't climb up that tower as it leans over 2m from the vertical.




I hopped on the train to Leiden in the afternoon and enjoyed seeing my first Dutch windmill and views of the town from a ruined circular fort called the Burcht. Had dinner on a lovely canal boat terrace with some delicious Old Amsterdam cheese for dessert and an amazing sunset.












I flew out of Amsterdam on Saturday morning after a truly wonderful 4 days in the Netherlands. I am in Madrid now, enjoying the sunshine, stately Spanish architecture (some of it reminds me of home!) and cheap wine (I stopped in a grocery store and bought M&Ms for €2.25 and a liter of wine for €0.55). I'll write more about Spain soon - I'm off now to have tapas with two friends I played water polo with at Michigan.

Up next on my itinerary: Barcelona, Granada, Tangier, Chefchaouen, Fes, Meknes (+ Moulay Idriss and Volubilis) and Marrakech before I head beck to London to start Orientation for UCL!

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